The Surf Professor
WEather Check 9-10-13

Wow! Amazing to think that it has been a week since I blogged. We saw the light wind field pass by with the ridge of high pressure above us, now having moved far northeast. A series of low pressure systems moving by far to the north have caused weak cold fronts to approach, giving us the lighter winds by pushing the ridge down. Now some fetches of wind aim towards us from the NNE and NNW (but a bit east of our forecasting location) , and the trades are filling in along the bottom of that high pressure.

Still yet, we are in the Kukeao clouds, with some Hina clouds passing by and interacting the past two days.

The swell just hit three buoy readings ago, at 4 ft. 16 seconds it will be about 2-4+ Hawaii scale feet (head high to 2 ft overhead) out of the NW to start with, 325-335˚. This means many spots will be good, but a bit confused at Laniakea with some rip running through and the sets heading towards Hultons. And so the season kicks off by noon today (16 sec=10-12 hr travel time from backup buoy 51101).

It was a beautiful sunset in town with high clouds wisping out to the southwest, and a big cumulonimbus on the horizon south of us... indications of that tropical low to the south of us, visible way over the southwestern horizon.

Equinox is coming! That means the sun is setting along its halfway point relative to our equator and along its N-S oscillation. Good day for Hokuleʻa to get to Nihoa, along the way to Mokumanamana, where time is kept and people meet when the stars align with the sun and planets. Venus and Saturn are near the moon in the south-southwest, crescent waxing into the ʻole days.

It is a period of change, as the very flat sea indicated... now it is time for waves to come from the NW to NE--stoked! Aloha, I

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