The Surf Professor
WEather Check 9-10-13

Wow! Amazing to think that it has been a week since I blogged. We saw the light wind field pass by with the ridge of high pressure above us, now having moved far northeast. A series of low pressure systems moving by far to the north have caused weak cold fronts to approach, giving us the lighter winds by pushing the ridge down. Now some fetches of wind aim towards us from the NNE and NNW (but a bit east of our forecasting location) , and the trades are filling in along the bottom of that high pressure.

Still yet, we are in the Kukeao clouds, with some Hina clouds passing by and interacting the past two days.

The swell just hit three buoy readings ago, at 4 ft. 16 seconds it will be about 2-4+ Hawaii scale feet (head high to 2 ft overhead) out of the NW to start with, 325-335˚. This means many spots will be good, but a bit confused at Laniakea with some rip running through and the sets heading towards Hultons. And so the season kicks off by noon today (16 sec=10-12 hr travel time from backup buoy 51101).

It was a beautiful sunset in town with high clouds wisping out to the southwest, and a big cumulonimbus on the horizon south of us... indications of that tropical low to the south of us, visible way over the southwestern horizon.

Equinox is coming! That means the sun is setting along its halfway point relative to our equator and along its N-S oscillation. Good day for Hokuleʻa to get to Nihoa, along the way to Mokumanamana, where time is kept and people meet when the stars align with the sun and planets. Venus and Saturn are near the moon in the south-southwest, crescent waxing into the ʻole days.

It is a period of change, as the very flat sea indicated... now it is time for waves to come from the NW to NE--stoked! Aloha, I

Kolea Muku

How did I do last week? Good, and the small north swell peaked on Saturday with 11-13 second period, I had said Sunday, but yes, within 2 weeks of the Koleasʻ arrivals, the first north swell passed through. 3-4 foot wave height maximum, and only a weak edge pass. Probably good at Laniakea, but the wind overcame it on the east side. Thats okay, we saw Keaomelemele again yesterday morning, and now the lighter trades are coming, with variables on the way. Might as well copy and paste my last post again here! Okay, much aloha, big changes coming here on Mauli, a dark moon rising just before dawn, the last of Hilina ʻehu! Hope you all had a good 3 day weekend!

Aloha e, Kumu I

Wednesday 8-28-13 Weather Blog

Aloha everyone! Wow, big changes in weather, as indicated by the sighting of our beautiful golden goddess yesterday morning. It appears this morning that the high pressure ridge has arrived, subsiding air, no clouds can grow until the land heats up late morning. Welcome to Kealohilani, the sparkling heavens whereupon Moʻoinanea built that home on the fringes of the wind for her grandchildren.

Guardians at the gates, Kukeaopoko, the short small puffy horizon clouds, and Kukeaoloa, the cold front, protects all that she built. Kaʻumaʻiliʻula, Keaomelemeleʻs half brother, also lives here in the sparkling house of high pressure, and he peeked over the horizon this morning, shown by the colors that were golden yesterday and reddish-orange-purple early today. Look at the ocean sparkle--ʻālohilohi... And Kamakau tells us that the Hawaiian gods modeled the north side of Kāneʻohe Bay as a model of all known lands on the Earth. Wow, lucky we live Hawaiʻi!

The kolea are also so on the mark, as we see two sets of low pressures forming on either side of the Pacific. The gulf of Alaska has a long fetch of broad winds being pushed along by this high pressure... the isobars are tightening as the first winter low pushes into the gulf... Meanwhile off China a series of low pressures are combining just like in the Gulf of Alaska, backing on each other in the "Fujiwara effect" and brewing up a good fetch that looks like a NW swell within 5 days. Here it is Wednesday, the north swell looks 3-4 days away, so yah, give thankx for nature, let us all bear witness to her greatness!

Aloha e, Kumu Ian


A high pressure is posted far north of the islands with a ridge dropping down towards us. High pressure means no high clouds, but clear blue above with puffy cumulus clouds. As we get closer to the center of the high, the sky turns golden in the morning, and the clouds get smaller, until the light winds move in and all clouds disappear for epic glassy mornings. 

Aloha e, Ian 

Aloha E world and welcome to the weather blog!

Aloha Everyone, for my first blog near the start of fall 2013 I would like to thank my friend Kaleo for his call last weekend. Both he and I saw our first manu Kolea (Golden Plover bird) had returned from the north (like, Alaska!) after their migration home. They spend the cold months here. It is customary to observe here in Hawaii that a North swell follows their arrival within two weeks... September 1st we shall see! 

Right now High pressure dominates the Pacific, with potential for a south swell next week. 13 years ago a huge south swell came on September 1st, 1999. I broke my leg surfing big west side, it was epic! The latest weather map does show a cut-off low pressure, a Kona low, forming close to the northwest, thus lightening up our tradewinds. I would be surprised if this source produced waves for us, but there is good potential for it! We shall see!!! 

Check out the Links page for more weather and surf forecasting sites. 

Aloha e, Kumu Ian

ps. apologies to those users who have seen my older blogs--apparently my browser did not show them so I always saw a blank page. Change browsers, and it works! Sorry for the duplications, hopefully I have figured it out!